Blod Svett Och Krita

10 mars 2016

Plagiarism, a couple of needed words


As I helped introducing those boards in Scandinavia ( as a coach I simply wanted them available in Sweden for my trainees and all climbers) I often get a lot of questions and comments about Progression & Transgression boards. I also get a lot of request to have gaze at "look-alike", boards that somehow resemble those designs but come with variations or are simply plagiates of the designers and developers work. My answers generally go like this:

1. Have in mind that these boards have a very specific design arisen from a scientific work published by Eva López & Juan Jose G Badillo in 2012. Variations in design of the board you use will invariably lead to variation in results. Those claiming that they are training on other boards (except Transgression, Progression or exact copies) by Lopez's method are actually not. I do not say it is wrong, but it is not what their study was designed for.

2. Beside the fact that the initial "regletometro" used for the investigation was kindly put to the public as an open source by the authors under a Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license, and it is unlawful to copy for commercial purposes. It is a shame that plagiars make money of other peoples hard work and money from their own pockets without a simple reference to the person that put the idea in the climbing community. I find it simply wrong and outrageous. Make your own "regletometro" (instructions in Eva's own Spanish blog) or buy the boards. Actually you will be putting the money into more development and science excellence that will revert on our own community by new designs and knowledge. This is something plagiars by default never will do.




So, scratch your brain and do it yourself or scratch your wallet and pay to the ones that made the hard work. Consider it as an investment in your own results and further developments, aside as a signal to some people in a branch where copying is making people considering stop designing. Not a good option in my opinion.

Here you have some instructions about how it is properly done when having one of those boards. All thanks to Eva and Dafnis. Share and give them credit.

Thanks to both of them, this boards have helped me and all my adult trainees over the last 6 years!

And nope, I'm not sponsored by the manufacturers and have no economic interest in those boards. Yes Eva is my friend but NO I would never prioritize our friendship by telling something I do not believe in, truth and honesty is more important to me.


Feel accused by this post? In that case you should better start thinking about if parasitism is helping this sport or your own company. Easy money is a temptation but as more and more of my friends and coachees 
witness after visiting climbing-branch fairs, plagiates and copies are flooding the industry. Don't put those community-friendly, eco, lifestyle, buddy, organic lies on your publicity, because you are not. Get a moral compass and help us develop this community and lifestyle for real. Want respect? Earn it...

Have a nice day all!

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